Friday, 23 October 2015

Day 16: Palmerston North to Wanganui


I awoke this morning to the smell of breakfast and freshly made coffee, there is no better way to wake. After enjoying our fantastic breakfast, courtesy of Phil, we were eager to get back on the bikes after spending the last two days apart. As I pumped up my tires I asked Phil, who had owned a local bike shop, if he could help me with tuning my bike quickly; as it was having problems with shifting into high ranges. Before long Phil had me fully tuned and the bike was packed. We sadly parted ways and hoped we would see him again.

                Back on the road, my bike felt better than ever, thanks again Phil. It was a good thing too, because today I was going to need the old girl in tip top shape to help me push through the maddening headwinds we had forecasted.  According to Phil, Palmerston North is the windiest place in New Zealand; well we felt every just of it coming out of town.

                On the road we pushed through the wind, which apparently never stops, for kilometer after kilometer. Unlike other headwind days we had, our spirits were keeping high; I’m not sure if it was the beautiful pastures of the lushest green rolling endlessly all around or maybe the knowledge of a hot meal and shower at the end of the journey. Our pace was slow but steady and both of us could really notice how much more fit we were since the start of the trip. We decided to stop for lunch in the small town of Samson and to grab a coffee at this little café in an old church aptly named Church Café. What a good choice this was, for fairly cheap Brian and I each enjoyed some delicious hot food, I had the bacon frittata and Brian had a toasted sandwich, and each a hot drink. Looking back now, I credit this stop in giving me the ability to push through to what follows. As we still had many kilometres to pedal we were back on the road and wind on our face. I have never before experienced such a wind as we had today. There was not a single moment in our eight hours today where there was no wind. There were some moments were you come behind some trees and feel the resistance back off a little, only to appear the other side a massive gust of wind bringing you to standstill. It was a completely unrelenting force all day long, there was moments where it was so gusty that any movement of my front wheel would send me into traffic or the ditch.

                After many stops, some walking of the bikes, and few select curses we finally rolled into Wanganui just after 6, and funny enough the wind died down. A little past Wanganui in a beautiful country home we reached our overnight stay courtesy of the lovely John and Ann. With rain beginning open its ugly eyes down on us we hurriedly unpacked the bags and were in the house. John and Ann were so kind to include us in their dinner, even though we were running it quite late.

                Yet again Warmshowers and New Zealands wonderful sense of hospitality had shown us a great time. We enjoyed a lovely meal with John and Ann followed by some tea, cookies and an exchange of travel stories around the world and New Zealand. With another storm coming through Brian and I were invited to stay a second night here to sit out the storm so off to bed it is after a long and very hard day. Day 16, 81km and all wind.

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